theysken's theory

Theyskens previously signed a deal to design the Theyskens Theory label for the brand, which debuts for spring 2011, but will take over design for the entire label as artistic director beginning with the fall 2011 season. The New York Times wrote an article on his new position, positing that this is big news! 

image via la boudoir

This is surprising news considering the following. Just read this clip from a Wall Street Journal article:

He won the International Award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America for his haunting, feminine designs. Mr. Theyskens insisted on designing his own fabrics: Some silk prints were reminiscent of watercolor paintings. He often used materials in new ways, for instance, attaching floaty strands of ostrich feathers to silk dresses.

          Dresses 'Like Sculptures'

Mr. Claessens says he sees the designer as a pure artist. "Olivier Theyskens' work goes beyond creating clothes and a collection. Prints are like paintings, dresses are like sculptures," Mr. Claessens says. "I see it at the same level as the work of some conceptual artists or grand movie makers."
Yet some retailers criticized the Rochas collection for being high-priced. Critics gushed, then gasped, as owner Procter & Gamble shuttered Rochas's fashion line in 2006, saying fashion wasn't "a core competency" of the company. The line was revived in 2008 with new investment partners and a new designer, Marco Zanini.
A year later, Mr. Theyskens landed at Nina Ricci. Again, reviewers gushed and retailers griped. Some ethereal silk blouses cost more than $2,000. His muses were rail-thin.

'I Can't Give It Away'

"He cut for somebody that was tall and very thin. It didn't fit women who could afford clothes of that caliber," says Karen Daskas, owner of the Tender Birmingham boutique near Detroit. There, the designer's final collection for Nina Ricci has been marked down to 60% off. "I can't give it away," she says. "And we try it on everybody."
Mr. Theyskens was shown the door after showing his fall 2009 collection in Paris—and Nina Ricci hired a new designer.
Mr. Theyskens says the criticism that his clothes sold poorly because they cost too much is "legend" but untrue. He also says the production department controlled fit issues using "strict measurement scales supposedly corresponding to the sector."
Is it fair to blame an artist for a brand's lack of commercial success when there are so many factors at play? Perhaps Mr. Theyskens should have paid more attention to the fit of his clothes. But fashion investment consultant Robert Burke believes that what Mr. Theyskens needs is a business partner who can help add wearable, more affordable clothes to his runway demi-couture. 

Ah, maybe this is Theyskens' chance. So far it's a hit, but let's see what else he can do.

image shot by Annie Leibovitz